It may be grandly named but there’s nothing too royal at the inauspicious intersection of King Street and Sixth Avenue.  While the charmingly Lilliputian southwest corner has no monarchial architectural blood lines, there is majesty here owing to the three woman holding court at King Restaurant.

The menu is all very spontaneous as Jess Shadbolt and  Clare de Boer conspire inspire in the kitchen with locally sourced and daily changing ingredients.  The beverage service of carefully curated wines is by the sommelier and front of house boss, Annie Shi. (She’s a wonder with the flowers but the overall charm of the restaurant could be upped a bit, especially with that coat rack and reservation lectern clumsily glommed together by the front door).

Come on any given night and they’ll be something new but what remains a constant are the pannisses (oh my god, that could easily be an uncomfortable word, but let’s not go there…..), aka chickpea fries. It’s all very French, a Mediterranean meets Marseille staple.  The long rectilinear fries with a sprinkling of coarse salt and crispy sage combine textures, a crunchy exterior with a smooth chewy interior, and flavors, the mellowness of the chickpea with the savory herb and briny edge of the sea salt.  In a word, delicious.

King Restaurant, 18 King Street, New York City, tel. 917 825 1618

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