23 Jul The EATORIALIST: A VINTAGE FORK

Sam Sifton of the New York Times has got his ABCs right. He may have hammered the Hamptons angle hard but he was on target – the crowd at ABC KITCHEN was as much the materialistically clad Hamptons gathering as the East buy cialis soft online End’s Nick & Toni’s draws on a weekend summer night. Don’t let that stop you though – the food is too darn good and the restaurant, a white ton sur ton industrial-meets-rural design aesthetic, is exceptionally pretty.

I love that the restauranteur Jean Georges Vongerichten has gone green. The locally sourced ingredients along with the jumble of vintage mix-and-match flatware were right up my eco-sustainable alley. This cutesy idea was all the more heartfelt when my theatrical barman placed down my setting with a fork from my Mother’s pattern – a difficult find even on replacements.com. She died almost two years ago and It was a welcome sign of the meal that was yet to be…..

An appetizer of hazelnut crusted soft shell crab distinguished itself wonderfully on a bed of tangy dressed salad of spring watercress, young cucumbers and pickled ramps. I purposely kept the fork on my bread plate and it stayed with me through the main course of arctic char adorned with sweet garlic crumbs and accompanied with the welcome bite of fresh broccoli rabe.

It was a delicious meal and, by way of that fork comforting and reassuring. Now, if only there was a way to soften the frenzied energy of the materialistically clad clientele forcing themselves upon the hostesses and overflowing into the bar area. ABC KITCHEN 35 E. 18th St., at Broadway; 212-475-5829

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