14 Feb The EATORIALIST: WHEN YOUR VALENTINE IS A TART
This year for Valentine’s Day I skipped over the chocolates and passed on the flowers. Was a time these would be top items in the romance offerings but alas they seem pointless while my love remains unrequited.
Nope, this year I will have to make do with a tart. Make that a yuzu tart from the Parisian ERIC KAYSER, a recent import that is nestled in the very un-Parisian environs of New York City’s Upper East Side. Yes, there was the woman with the Hermes Birkin bag and young ladies with French manicures, but alas this was all on the lacking-in-glam Third Avenue – a bit too far away from the haute-ness of Madison Avenue. These ladies, disinclined to use knifes, wrestled their salads with forks only, every now and then assisting entry with their index fingers. Such unladylike manners, they were all fur coat and no knickers.
With all this going on, it made sense to go with the tart, no?! At MAISON ERIC KAYSER it may veer towards Le Pain Quotidien – the ubiquitous chain found throughout the world – but here the restaurant design and the bakes take on a more polished edge. With Kayser’s Viennoiserie,
boulangerie and patisserie, we’re talking about serious tres bien yum!!! The salads, croques and quiches may satisfy – perfect for those who excel in fingering food into their mouths -but who wants a mediocre and tepid quiche when you can have a bang from a voluptuous tart?
With yuzu think grapefruit meets the mandarin orange for a uniquely aromatic East Asian edge. In this tart the sturdy pate sablée crust supports a tangy curd that has a bitter-sweet edge from a sprinkling of citrusy zest. No lemons here, not when your valentine is a yuzu tart.
ERIC KAYSER, various locations in New York City, Paris and soon to a neighborhood near you.