20 Apr THE: EATORIALIST: NOSTALGIA BAKES

I can’t help but fondly remember those little DRAKE’S COFFEE CAKES. Not so much for what they tasted like but for what they represented. The individually wrapped cakes often made their way into my elementary school lunch box and, even if dry and a bit too sweet, the sugary cinnamon crumble topped pound cake was a reminder of that granny bakes moment, the square cake cutouts at

a bake sale and on the deli counter of my childhood.

Drake’s Coffee Cake
Parm’s Coffee Cake

Decades have passed since I tore through the plastic wrapper of one of those extended shelf-life Drake’s Cakes.  They

would have remained untapped in my memory and outside the purview of the EATORIALIST had it not been for a stop by PARM, a restaurant that brings glory to classic and unfussy Italian American plates.

Except for an additional inch or so of height, the muffin-shaped coffee cakes at PARM are very much the Drake’s lookalikes. Happy to say that the similarities stop there.  Think of moist buttery pound cake with just the right amount of not-too-sweet crumble and you’ve got the perfect nostalgia bakes take on the nostalgia bakes moment that was Drake’s Cakes.

PARM 248 Mulberry Street, NoLIta New York City tel. 212 993 7189

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