26 Apr The EATORIALIST: BURGERS GONE BERSERK – The UnBurger
This week, EATER, the site that brings you all things food related is running its first ever burger week.
There’s a vote. Yesterday was best fastfood burger. And, the award goes to SHAKE SHACK. Agreed this is one melt in your mouth nostalgia minded burger (think the concession stand at Jones Beach circa 2nd half of the 20th century with an up-to-date spin and top notch ingredients – Pat LaFrieda never got his meat shoreside in those days).
They’ll be more votes on burger variations and then they’ve got five top restos that don’t serve burgers working them into their menu mix.
This leads to the question: when is a burger not a burger? When does squeezing a slab of something other than USDA ground prime (or a variation there of) into a bun veer from burgerness? Guess that’s all in the eyes of the bunholder, no? Up until now we’ve kept to some degree of tradition with a beef and, to a lesser extent, fowl base patties (the veggie burger is a creation all its own and we’ll save that for another day). Even with injections and layers of foie gras, bacon, pork belly and cheeses, and the blending of or substitute of beef with meats such as pork and lamb, there’s always some resemblance to the good old Wimpy ideal, a burger on a bun.
Now its time for the UN-BURGER. And, as Amanda Kludt of EATER shows us, these come from some very unlikely unburger joints.
Peking duck on a bun? That’s what you get in CHINATOWN BRASSERIE’S Triple Happiness Burger (Good but no marriage between these buns – I’d rather have my steamed pancake wrap with Hoisin
sauce any day.
A burger at a Thai restaurant? That’s what Amanda ventured for at New York’s modern Thai resto KIN SHOP. Lots of creativity into this curry-edged wonder but way too rich for me. Hey, did you bring the Alka Seltzer or what?
Stay tuned for more burger and unburger developments with the Eatorialist and its next edition of BURGERS GONE BERSERK!!!.