www.Mappetite.com
It’s a long stretch from Maine to New York City, long enough for a lobster roll to lose a bit of its authenticity along the way. Likewise, the charms of the distinctly American “seafood shack” evaporate the further it drifts away from the seaside. That’s not to say that a lobster roll won’t hit your gustatory spot even if its a half day’s drive from where it’s likely to taste its best.
It’s a pretty simple proposition. Variations abound but the formula calls for a hot dog bun (fresh, often toasted and buttered), lobster meat (mixture of knuckle, claw and tail), seasoning and, on occasion a mayo dressing.
For the big hitters there are the sleek seafood bars like the Mermaid Inn, Ed’s and Mary’s Fish Camp (all good) and Pearl’s (just so so). Hovering at $27 a roll, these are pricey endeavours. Most of these “Maine” rolls are not sourced in Maine – meaning lobsters past their prime, from non-sustainable and, ever worse, polluted fisheries. MAPPETITE found rolls with meat that ranged from mushy to rubbery, often over-powered with mayo and celery. Another problem (which ties into the pricing along with the distance traveled from the docks) was the volume of filler – there was just too darn much lobster salad stuffed into those rolls. Along with a side of fries, these were glutton moments. Sad to see those leftovers go to waste, after all, seafood on a bun does not travel well in a doggy bag, especially on a hot summer day.
There’s a guy we heard about in Brooklyn who serves up “black market” rolls out of his apartment. They’re meant to be good but they’re too hard to get -not the most practical means of satisfying your crustacean cravings. There’s the Red Hook Lobster Pound (supplies the “black market” lobster roll man), a solid contender but also off the beaten path as public transportation does Red Hook, Brooklyn a real disservice. And then, there’s Luke’s.
Seaside paraphernalia (buoys, fishnets, lobsterman’s garb), a driftwood-esque counter, stools and, presto, faux seafood shack. It all works cause of ‘em tasty lobster rolls. Pulled together by a father has with a seafood processing plant in Maine and his son running the NYC shops), everything, including the pickles, are sourced out of Maine. This is the Goldilocks of rolls – lobster done just right. Chilled tender and lightly seasoned meat on a fresh bun, these filled, but not overstuffed, rolls totally satisfy at $14 each.
We love Sally selling seashells at the seashore. Not sure how she’d fare hocking her wares on Second Avenue, but take a lesson from Luke and she’ll do quite alright. LUKE’S, 93 East 7th St (East Village) and 242 East 81st Street (Upper East Side). Daily 11 to 11 and to 12 on weekends.
Posted July 15th, 2010 (7:47 pm) in newyork. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.