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Featuring well among the West End theatres are few culinary stars. Nearly all of the food houses are flops – marquee billings for homogenized offerings catering to tourists easily satisfied with the chain or ethnic themed dining experience. Me, I’m looking for the meal showstopper. Long runs of good eats are hard to find. Not so with J. Sheekey – it’s a cause celebre that good taste and things that taste good can, hand in hand, endure. Amongst the pedestrian retail fronts around St. Martin’s Lane the exterior façade of J. Sheekey is a discreet statement – while its name boldly announces that this is J. SHEEKEY the frosted paned glass with mirrored abstract figures ala Matisse’s paper cutouts period give little indication of what lay inside.
J. Sheekey, refurbished and relaunched in 1998, successfully pays homage to the restaurant’s heritage. Firstly, in name, to the local fishmonger Josef Sheeky, turned restauranteur in 1898. Secondly, in its tradition of serving British regional seafood, fish dishes and sides. And, thirdly, for J. Sheekey’s purposeful location in the theatre district as a gentleman’s repast to haunt for actors and celebutants of West End culture through the later part of the 20th century.
Shellfish, oysters and crab variations all read like a short list of mariner’s favorites. There’s the market fish and specials, signature dishes such as the fish pie, salmon fishcakes and dover sole. Accompaniments should always include the standout side of Parmesan fried vegetables and, when in season, samphire, a briny sort of sea string bean.
In classic theatre dining style, sections of the paneled walls are dedicated to images of past visitors – framed famed figures attesting to the eatery’s celebrity over the years. This ploy is well executed at J. Sheekey – enriched with photos of J. Sheekey decendents, including his granddaughter pictured left in front of the shop circa 1960s. At this restaurant you’re among the family of immortalized patrons peering out from their permanent spots on the wall. Now, lucky you, it’s your turn to enjoy that same sensory experience, a truly wonderful meal. J. SHEEKEY, 32 St. Martin’s Court. Tel. 020.7240.2565
Posted January 7th, 2010 (5:14 pm) in london. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.